Culinary journey back in time to the 18th century

Most people simply associate Whitsun with a public holiday without work. Many still know that this holiday has a Christian origin, but only a few know the true reason for it. On the one hand, this is because it is not as commercialised as Christmas or Easter. On the other hand, Pentecost is not only religious in origin, but also incorporates Germanic customs that celebrate the arrival of spring, the awakening of blossoming nature or the request for a bountiful harvest. Some of these customs have also been preserved in rural areas.

Christians have been celebrating Pentecost on the 50th day (ancient Greek pentecoste = Whitsun) after Easter since 425: this symbolises the sending of the Holy Spirit to the 12 apostles and can be equated with the figurative founding of their church. The dove symbolises the descent of the Holy Spirit. In churches, the miracle of Pentecost was once symbolised by flowers lowered from the church ceiling, burning tow or a dove.

Popular customs were also widespread in earlier times. Whitsun games were organised by the nobility as tournaments and by the people as shooting or riding festivals. Whether Pfingstquack, Pfingstel or Laubmann - the figure wrapped in straw and decorated with flowers is known by many names; he stands for the last one, the lazy one, the late riser - in a playful ritual he was pushed into the water or at least doused.

During the Pentecost season, water is of particular importance and promises blessings. Pentecost baptisms often took place. The laborious cleaning of fountains and watercourses also came to an end and people rewarded themselves with pretty fountain festivals. Many customs revolved around the search for a partner for life or marriage. These include, for example, "birch pinning" - at night, a birch branch/trunk decorated with ribbons was pinned to the front door of the house.

In our regions, we are more familiar with the symbolism of colourfully ribboned and crowned wood in the form of the maypole, also in connection with traditional dancing and singing. The Whitsun ox is also well known. The strongest animal is placed in front of the herd procession and dressed up, or it is slaughtered and then eaten with relish.

There are also culinary customs at Whitsun. Here are some suggestions for your Whitsun menu, taken from the cookery book "Wie man in Berlin zur Zeit der Königin Luise kochte. A gastronomic contribution based on the notes written in 1795" by Friedericke Charlotte Fontane, the wife of a cabinet secretary to Queen Louise of Prussia (1776-1810).

The menu could start with a "French soup". This savoury bouillon was made from a strong meat broth and cooked with Welschkraut, Teltow turnips, yellow turnips and leek. Simmer over the fire with thick slices of toasted bread. Alternatively, it can also be a "lemon soup". Lemons are peeled, sliced, poured over with water and cooked, with sugar and cinnamon added, then mixed with white wine and finally thickened with starch. You could drink it warm or cold from cups []". All the milk milked at Whitsun was given to the maids. Perhaps they also opted for this vegetable variation: "Spinach cooked in milk". First boil it in water, then chop it, add milk, nutmeg and salt, add strips of white bread fried in butter and slowly bring everything to the boil again. The emphasised importance of water also extended to its inhabitants. Fish is therefore a traditional Whitsun dish. How about "carp, as cooked by the chef at Lützwitzens"? Here it (the fish!) is properly salted on onions, celery and parsley root and then floats in beer over the fire. Mix a roux with brown sugar "then add lemon juice, English spices and cloves to taste". Ducks can also be found on the water, and accordingly on many a plate at Whitsun. In the 18th century, we knew "duck with sugar roots". The sugar roots are served with chestnuts and murchels. Let's bring the Whitsun ox back into the kitchen in the form of "ox tongue with rose hips". Simmer the rose hips with stock, white wine, sugar, cinnamon and lemon slices. And if you don't fancy ox or duck, you might prefer the flavourful combination of "veal with gooseberries". "A light cream of rice" (cream of rice pudding refined with lemon zest and rose water) can be the delicious conclusion to this culinary journey through time.

Bon appétit!

Maren Gündel, City Archive

Published in: Official Gazette May 2016